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As a kid, I always knew my grandmother loved me. After all, she told me that every time I visited her on Saturday afternoons. She lived in Queens, NY, and we’d visit after sitting through 5 long hours of Lithuanian school in Brooklyn every Saturday morning.

By the time we got to my grandmother’s house, it was mid-afternoon, and I was starving. She’d greet me with a smile and a kiss on the forehead, and she’d proudly put a steaming plate full of koldūnai (Lithuanian pierogis, usually stuffed with meat) in front of me, with spirgučiai (fried bacon and onion bits) generously sprinkled on top, and a dollop of sour cream on the side.

There were times when I could eat 20 of them. However many I had, it seemed that she still had more, and I never thought for a moment about where they came from. I guess I knew that she made them, but I never really thought about how much work that was.

Now I cook for my daughter, and the other day, she asked for one of her favorite dishes: ham and cheese croquettes. It’s a long and messy process to make them: boiling and mashing potatoes, chopping up slabs of ham, grating piles of cheddar cheese, mincing onions. Then rolling the croquette filling in flour, egg and breadcrumbs before frying them.

Whether I make six or sixty, the kitchen is trashed afterwards, so I go with the larger number…62 this time, to be exact. (They freeze well.)

 

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It’s not hard work, but it’s tedious. After making 30 croquettes, my back was aching from standing hunched over the kitchen counter. And I was only half done. I tried pulling up a stool, but that didn’t help, so I popped a few ibuprofen and kept going, finally frying that last croquette, turning the heat off the oil, and standing back to see a kitchen counter covered in egg, flour, breadcrumbs, and mashed potatoes. The cooking was done but the cleanup was just beginning.

My daughter stepped off the school bus at the end of the driveway, and I greeted her with a kiss on the forehead, telling her I loved her. We walked back to the house, and I asked her about her day, all the time knowing that I had a special treat waiting for her that I couldn’t wait to show her.

We walked into the house and she saw the trays of croquettes. I placed a couple of them on a plate and she sat down, eyes wide open, and took her first crunchy bite. The heartfelt “Mmmmm” that came from deep inside her gave me a real sense of satisfaction. My hours of work had paid off with one simple bite. Few things could’ve made me happier at that moment than the smile on her face.

 

And then I thought of my grandmother.

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What I did that day for my daughter, my grandmother did for me every Saturday without fail. And she was a lot older than I am now.

She loved me, alright. Funny how it took almost 40 more years for me to realize just how much.

I’m back home after a long trip away, and there are foods that I absolutely crave. This is one of my go-to comfort recipes.

I really love the deep flavor of soy sauce and the sweetness of hoisin on poultry. Peking duck is the best example of this, but since I live in Rhode Island, I don’t get a chance to jump in the car and drive to Chinatown in Boston or New York at the drop of a hat. I had to come up with a plan B…and a good plan B!

I found it while looking through an old Chinese cookbook I had bought many years ago. Written by legendary NY Times food critic Craig Claiborne and Virginia Lee, “The Chinese Cookbook” has become my bible for all of my Asian dishes.

I use chicken instead of duck. It’s cheaper, easier to find, and I can easily buy a whole pasture-raised chicken from local farms here in Rhode Island. But it is just as delicious.

As long as you use gluten-free soy sauce and hoisin sauce (La Choy and Kikkoman make them and they’re found in just about any supermarket), this recipe is gluten-free.

 

 

1 whole chicken, about 6 lbs., or 2 smaller chickens (pictured)
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
4 teaspoons Chinese five spice powder
2 teaspoons granulated garlic
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
6 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil

 

Remove all the giblets from the chicken and discard. Rub the soy sauce first all over the chicken. (The chicken will absorb the flavors better if you do it before you rub the bird with the oil.) Then rub the peanut oil all over the chicken.

Combine the Chinese five spice, garlic, salt and pepper in a bowl. Season the entire chicken, including inside the cavity, with this mixture.

Pre-heat the oven to 325 degrees. Place the chicken in a pan lined with aluminum foil (cleanup will be easier) and bake.

Meanwhile, combine the hoisin sauce and sesame oil in a small bowl. When the chicken is about 15 minutes away from being done, brush it with the hoisin/sesame oil mixture. Cook it another 15 minutes until the chicken has a nice dark glaze. Don’t let it burn!

Let it rest about 15 minutes before carving.

 

I Have the Cure

Posted: February 19, 2023 in Uncategorized

Home from New Zealand now, and it should be no surprise that I timed my vacation so that this lovely pork belly would be perfectly cured by the time I got home!

Urban Eatery, Nelson, NZ

Posted: February 19, 2023 in Uncategorized

Urban Eatery and Oyster Bar gets my award for best overall restaurant in Nelson, and the best I’ve had on my entire trip! Great food, excellent cocktails, and wonderful people that let this annoying American sit at the bar at his own special seat! Great atmosphere. It has it all.

Wafu Bistro Sushi

Posted: February 19, 2023 in Uncategorized

I’ve had a lot of sushi in my day, and this is some of the best ever. Wafu Bistro in Nelson, NZ.

Kismet

Posted: February 19, 2023 in Uncategorized

Kismet is the best bar in Nelson, NZ. Nick and Ara are passionate about the cocktails they serve, and it’s fun to watch masters at work! Great people, too.

Cable Bay

Posted: February 19, 2023 in Uncategorized

My last road trip in New Zealand was to Cable Bay, which sounded like a fun, leisurely, 25 minute ride away from Nelson. Actually, the roads were extremely narrow, crumbling, with log trucks coming the other way! Rock slides on one side of the road, crumbling cliffs to the left. A challenge, but the scenery was beautiful.

The Trip So Far…

Posted: February 15, 2023 in Uncategorized

I started in Nelson and I am back in Nelson now. Well over 1000 miles, including the train ride. Top speeds on NZ roads are 60 mph, but many are half that, so I spent quite a few hours behind the wheel. I would’ve taken more photos and more videos, but there are very few places to pull over on the side of the road safely to do that. Still, it was quite the journey. I have one more full day in Nelson, and I’m not quite sure yet what I’m going to do. But it has been quite a ride!

No Corkscrew?

Posted: February 15, 2023 in Uncategorized

An amazing bottle of Hans Herzog Chardonnay and no corkscrew in my hotel room. And my Swiss Army knife was no help at all! So I used the old school technique of wrapping the bottle with a towel, and pushing the cork in with a spoon. Worked like a charm.

Many of the wineries now have restaurants and offer wonderful lunches with wine tastings. Saint Clair is one of the best!