And May is National Hamburger Month. How can you go wrong? First, a favorite burger recipe, then one for brisket.

The Inside-Out Burger: If I’m making bacon cheeseburgers to bring to a barbecue, even if it’s on my back deck, instead of bringing a package of bacon and a package of cheese and a stack of burgers, I put all the ingredients inside the patties themselves. As the burgers cook, the fat from the bacon and the gooey cheese melt and combine with the burger meat to make a really tasty and moist burger.

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2 lbs. ground beef
1/2 cup sharp cheddar cheese, cut into 1/4″ cubes
1/2 lb. bacon, cooked crisp, cooled and crumbled
garlic salt
avocado oil or pork fat

In a bowl, combine the beef, the cheese and the bacon, mixing well so that all the ingredients are evenly incorporated. Form the beef into 1/4 lb. patties. Refrigerate them until you’re ready to cook to firm them up.

Heat a cast iron skillet and add a drop of oil or pork fat. Place the burgers in the hot skillet to sear and sprinkle with the garlic salt. When browned, flip the burgers and place the skillet in a 350-degree oven to finish cooking.

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Brisketta: There’s a wonderful Italian roasted meat dish called Porchetta (por-ketta). The classic version consists of a pork belly that is seasoned and then wrapped around a pork loin. The meat is tied, then roasted slowly for hours, basted with wine and the meat juices until the pork is cooked and the outside skin is crackly and crispy. Then it’s sliced like a log and served as a sandwich or a main dish.

I decided to use the same method of cooking for beef brisket, and I called it “Brisketta.”

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I flipped the brisket fat-side-down on my cutting board and carefully sliced it down the middle horizontally to make two large–even thinner–slabs of meat. The bottom half, with the fatty side of the brisket, would eventually be my outside layer. The top half would be my inside layer.

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I took the top half and slathered some of my seasonings on it. Then I rolled it tightly into a log. I slathered more of my seasonings onto the bottom half of the brisket, then rolled it around the first log, so that the fattiest side of the brisket would now be on the outside of this large meat log. I tied the meat log up tightly with butchers’ twine and let it rest in my fridge overnight.

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7 lbs. beef brisket
1 tablespoon fennel seed, toasted and cooled
5–3″ strips of bacon, cooked and cooled
2 tablespoons oregano
2 tablespoons parsley
2 teaspoons basil
2 tablespoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons granulated onion
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1/2 cup olive oil

Pour the fennel seed in a hot, dry pan on the stove. Toast the seeds until they release their aroma, but don’t let them burn. Set aside to cool.

Crumble the bacon strips and place in the bowl of a food processor. Add the cooled fennel seeds, oregano, parsley, basil, salt, pepper, onion, garlic, and lemon zest.

Run the food processor and slowly pour in the olive oil, until you have a paste much like pesto.

Slice the brisket in half horizontally. Save the piece with the fatty side for last, because this is the piece that will wrap around the others, with the fatty side out. Smear the rub on the first piece of brisket and roll it tightly into a log. Smear the rub on the second piece of brisket and wrap it around the first piece, making sure the fatty side is on the outside.

Once you’ve rolled both pieces into a single meat log, scored the fatty exterior with a knife and rub any leftover seasoning paste onto it. If you have none left, simply season with salt and pepper.

Tie the meat log tightly with butchers’ twine, tucking in all loose ends.

At this point, you can place the meat log in the fridge until ready to cook, remembering to remove it at least an hour before cooking so that it comes back to room temperature.

Pre-heat an oven or smoker at 250 degrees. Place the meat log directly on the grate, with a pan underneath to catch the dripping fat. Place a bowl of water in there as well, to keep the meat moist while it cooks. Cook for 4 1/2 hours, or until the interior temperature reaches 130 degrees. Let it rest an hour before slicing…if you can wait that long!

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I spent my last full day in Portugal just walking up and down the streets of Lisbon. It was Easter weekend, and the streets were full of people enjoying a beautiful, sunny day. I was told that schools in Portugal and Spain take two-week vacations around Easter, and many people from Portugal go to Spain while folks from Spain visit Portugal, since it’s only a few hours by car. And I found that to be very true, since I could understand overheard conversations a lot better that weekend! (My Spanish is much better than my Portuguese!)

The waterfront in Lisbon was full of travelers!

A small Easter marketplace opened up over the weekend, and it was my opportunity to try the famous pork sandwich called bifana. I had actually tracked down a bifana shop in town, but they were closed for the holiday. So finding this stand was a bit of luck. And it was delicious!

The ladies workjing here were very sweet and happy to share their food with hungry customers like me!
An interesting way to serve condiments!
A beer is always a good choice on a hot day!

My last meal in Portugal had to be special. And so, I chose a restaurant that was visited by Anthony Bourdain many years ago on “No Reservations.” The only time he went to Portugal, from what I understand.

Cervejaria Ramiro has been around for many years, but Bourdain brought it worldwide fame, and if you don’t get yourself a reservation, you don’t get in!

Amazing seafood served at a frenetic pace. Fast, but you never feel rushed. And the servers are real characters. It’s just an awesome, fun time eating fantastic seafood!

The garlic was heavy here!

I met Anthony Bourdain once. I was lucky enough to introduce him onstage at the Providence Performing Arts Center, back when he did his speaking tours. We had a good 30 minutes to hang out together backstage, and what did we talk about? Nickelodeon! Both his daughter and mine were the same age, and we were dads that sat and watched “Spongebob” and “Dora” with our kids. It was a wonderful “dad” conversation I’ll never forget–as far from foodie talk as it could be.

Out on the North Fork of Long Island, there’s a steak restaurant called the Elbow Room. It’s nothing fancy…old school cooking. But they’re famous for their steaks because of a super-secret marinade. Ages ago, I spotted a newspaper article that claimed they found out what that secret marinade was, and they published it. Whether this really is the official Elbow Room marinade or not, I have to say it’s pretty darn tasty and it makes for a delicious steak on the grill.

 

 

My biggest concern with the marinade was the salt factor, since it uses soy sauce. But the ribeye I had was almost an inch-and-a-half thick, which meant that it could sit in the marinade for a long time…my ribeye sat in it for 8 hours. If you choose to use a thinner cut of meat, you might need to reduce your marinating time.

The recipe uses a product called Gravy Master, available in most supermarkets. Look for it in the section where you find gravies and instant potatoes.

 

 

1 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup Gravy Master
2 large Vidalia onions
2 cloves of garlic
2 teaspoons celery seed
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

 

Combine the onions and garlic in a large food processor and purée. Add the remaining ingredients and run the processor until it’s smooth and sort of resembles root beer.

 

 

Marinate the beef in the marinade overnight, or for as long as possible. The thicker the cut of meat, the longer you can marinate it.

Looks delicious, but it hasn’t been cooked yet! Straight out of the marinade.

 

Light the grill. I prefer pure hardwood charcoal because that’s where the flavor is. If I’m just cooking one steak, I get my camping grill out. It lights quickly and easily, and it doesn’t waste a whole lotta charcoal.

 

Always use a charcoal chimney, never lighter fluid…unless you like the taste of petroleum products in your food.

 

Pure hardwood charcoal gives you a hot fire. I like to sear the beef really well on both sides, then move the steak to a cooler spot on the grill and close the cover. I’ll let the beef cook until it gets to a perfect medium-rare.

 

 

If you try this marinade on burgers–and it’s great on burgers–simply brush the burgers with the marinade as you place them on the grill. Go easy or you’ll get a very salty burger.

 

Marinated grilled ribeye with a side of fried rice…an easy combination of veggies and rice leftovers I had in the fridge with a dash of soy sauce.

 

 

 

Sintra and Cascais are two very popular destinations just outside of Lisbon proper, and it was highly recommended to me that I sign up with a tour, rather than try to drive the narrow, winding roads by myself. I wisely took the tour.

Not only was the tour informative and relaxing, but tickets to the always-popular, always-crowded Pena National Palace in Sintra, were included. It was a van of no more than 8 people, and our knowledgeable driver knew the roads really well.

The Pena National Palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it was built by King Ferdinand II as a royal summer residence in the 19th century. But there are so many more details to the story. I’ll leave it to you to Google it if you’re interested.

The walk uphill to the palace was quite steep, but the views we saw when we finally got there made it all worthwhile.

If you’re going to check the palace out, I highly recommend going off-season. It gets very, very crowded, with very long waits in line.

After the palace tour, we made a quick walk through the town of Sintra, stopping for some of their famous pastries and a wonderful drink called Ginja, a cherry liqueur served in a small chocolate cup.

Sweets of Sintra, from the famous Casa Piriquita bakery.

On our way to Cascais, we stopped at Cabo da Roca, the most western point in continental Europe.

We headed back to Lisbon along the coast, driving through Cascais, which is basically the Portuguese Riviera. Suddenly, there are waterfront mansions, Ferraris zooming past the tour van, and lots of beautiful people wearing expensive clothes and shopping in expensive shops. You almost feel like you’ve been transported to another country…

We made a stop in Cascais to have lunch and walk along the perfectly manicured waterfront. Only when I returned to my hotel did I realize I didn’t take any pictures in Cascais. The glitz and glam was fun to see, but it’s not what I came to Portugal for.

I love tequila. I love Pimm’s. And I love Dark & Stormies. I’m a lush. This cocktail has an interesting nod to all three. And it’s perfect for the warmer weather we’re finally getting here in New England.

tequila cup

 

 

3 oz. Patron silver tequila, or your favorite
1.5 oz. Pimm’s No. 1
Good squeeze of fresh lime juice
Chilled ginger beer
Ice cubes
Fresh mint
Cucumber slices (optional)

Combine the tequila, Pimm’s and lime juice in a highball glass filled with ice.
Place slices of cucumber in the glass, if desired.
Top it with your favorite ginger beer and stir gently.
Garnish with a mint sprig.

Leaving Algarve, the southern region of Portugal, I was going to take a longer, more scenic route back north to Lisbon along the western shore. But I was getting tired of driving, having already put about 900 miles behind me, and I had almost 200 more to go via the most direct route, which would take about 3 hours. I decided to go direct, rather than add even more hours to my journey via the scenic route.

Fascinating to see so many stork nests on the transmission towers near the highway.

Once in the city of Lisbon, I just needed to navigate my little rental car to my home for the next 3 nights: the Altis Avenida Hotel. Once there, the valet would whisk my car away and I wouldn’t need it again until it was time for me to return the car to the airport a few days later.

The hotel was wonderful, with a room on the 6th floor, giving me a great view of the city.

So many interesting places were just a walk away from my central location, and I explored a lot on foot, despite the fact that there were some serious hills challenging my bad knees!

I was craving fresh seafood, and the hotel concierge told me of a place that was just a few blocks away: Ribadouro Restaurante Cervejaria. It totally hit the spot.

Welks and shrimp for lunch, with a beer to wash it down. Perfect on a warm, sunny day!
The selection of seafood was incredible!
My hotel was just a block away from the Hard Rock Cafe, a great stop for a refreshing gin and tonic…or two…

This was a wonderful cocktail that I came back for several times. As it turned out, my choice for dinner and drinks my first night was on the top floor of the hotel, at the Rossio Gastrobar. Great drinks and wonderful food…it got pretty crowded at night. The views of Lisbon from the open-air rooftop were amazing, with lively music, lots of couples, and even blankets and a dozen fire pits to keep guests warm on cooler nights. It became my last stop at the end of every day in Lisbon, and why not? My room was just an elevator ride away.

Grilling makes food taste great, but sometimes you don’t want to stand out there in a cloud of smoke while your friends are at the table, sipping wine and having a good time without you.

This is a great dish for those that want to pass on the grill for a day. It’s a delicious salad that you can serve warm or cool. You can make it the day before. Wrap it in plastic, and keep it in the fridge. Then, when your guests arrive, let it warm to room temperature. Taste for seasoning before serving. If you’re not a fan of quinoa, brown basmati rice works well, too. And use what’s fresh and in season. If you can’t find asparagus, some chopped and lightly sautéed squash works just as well.

 

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1 1/3 cup dry quinoa (or 1 cup basmati rice)
Chicken stock
Juice of 1 lemon
2 lbs. wild-caught American shrimp, peeled and de-veined (16 to 18 count)
1 cup of asparagus stalks, cut into 1″ lengths
1/2 cup minced scallions, green part only
1 cup chopped fresh dill
1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 English cucumber, peeled, seeded and medium-diced
1/4 cup red onion, small diced
1/2 cup seeded and chopped tomatoes
3/4 lb. good feta cheese, crumbled
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

 

Prepare the quinoa according to the package directions, using chicken stock instead of water. Once it’s cooked, place it in a large bowl. (1 1/3 cups dry quinoa should give you about 3 cups of cooked quinoa.)

Place the chopped asparagus on a sheet pan, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss them to combine and spread them out in a single layer. Roast them for just a few minutes at 350 degrees. Set them aside to cool to room temperature. (You can also simply sauté the asparagus in a pan on the stove top with olive oil, salt and pepper.)

Place the shrimp on the same sheet pan, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Toss them to combine and spread them out in a single layer. Roast for 5 to 6 minutes at 350 degrees, until the shrimp are cooked through. Turn them once while cooking. Don’t overcook them! (again…you can simply sauté the shrimp in a pan on the stove top with olive, salt and pepper.)

Add the shrimp to the quinoa, then add the asparagus, lemon juice, scallions, dill, parsley, cucumber, onion, tomatoes, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Add the feta and stir carefully.

Set it all aside at room temperature for 1 hour to allow the flavors to blend…or, if you’re not serving soon, place the bowl in the fridge. Before serving, allow it to warm almost to room temperature. Taste it and season again, if needed, before serving.

 

 

In my travels, I’ve had my share of Michelin star restaurant experiences, in Spain, England, and the US. And though the food has been amazing, only one or two are etched in my mind as perhaps the most incredible dining experience I’ve ever had. But after dining at Vila Joya on the Mediterranean in Portugal, I can now add a third to the list.

Austrian chef Dieter Koschina came to southern Portugal in 1991, and earned his first Michelin star in 1995. He received his second in 1999. And he has been creating outrageously beautiful dishes ever since.

My reservation was at 7:30 PM, and they asked if I would like to make a cocktail reservation a half hour earlier, at 7. I thought that would be a great idea, and so I arrived, to be shown a comfortable couch facing the Mediterranean as I was handed the drink list. I’ve had OK cocktails up to this point on my trip, so I was really craving a perfectly made ice cold gin martini, and that’s exactly what showed up moments later.

I asked for a twist in my martini, and it came with beautiful little flowers, punched out of the lemon peel.

As I sipped my martini, I looked over the tasting menu I was about to explore with much anticipation.

Once I finished my cocktail, I was moved a bit closer to the large floor-to-ceiling windows, to get a much better view of the beautiful Mediterranean waters below.

The sun was setting as I started my dinner experience, mother nature‘s light show illuminating every plate as it appeared on my table.

This incredibly delicate potato shell, surrounding sour cream and topped with a generous amount of caviar, was a great way to start any meal, anywhere, anytime!
And so it began…

I’m going to let you follow along with the menu I posted above to see if you can match the dishes with the list!

All small plates, intensely flavored, all beautifully plated and skillfully prepared.

…And more than one dessert!

End of the meal…now dark outside…

Before I departed, my lovely sommelier, Catarina, wrote down a list of great cocktail lounges and restaurants I had to visit in Lisbon, my next stop.

I love avocado, and using it in this chicken burger recipe gives each bite a creamy, fatty richness the chicken needs.  It’s a simple burger, with just a handful of ingredients, but it’s really full of flavor.

If you want to go lo-carb, you can skip the breadcrumbs (and the bun for that matter.) If you’re going gluten-free, simply use GF breadcrumbs and buns and you’re all set to go.

If you don’t like avocado, leave it out. There’s still plenty of flavor.

Wanna add cheese? Go for it.

The bacon is optional, but what burger isn’t better with bacon?

The one thing I wouldn’t substitute is ground turkey for the chicken. To me, ground turkey is the cardboard of the meat world. It’s just nasty, and I won’t eat it.

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1 lb. ground chicken
1/4 cup breadcrumbs
1 ripe avocado, sliced into small cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
pinch granulated garlic
slices of bacon, cooked
Sauce (recipe below)

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Combine the chicken, breadcrumbs, chopped avocado, salt and pepper, and garlic in a bowl and mix them thoroughly but carefully so that you don’t squash the cubes of avocado. I like to put the meat in the freezer for about 10 minutes to firm it up a bit.

Form the meat into burger patties. It will be a bit sticky, but just make sure you get the avocado evenly distributed. (I find that using gloves and lightly spraying my hand with avocado oil helps me make the patties without sticking.) Chill the patties again in the freezer for about 10 minutes to firm them up some more before cooking.

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Heat a little avocado oil (or bacon fat!) in an oven-proof pan, and place the burgers in it when it’s hot. Let the burgers sear on one side, then flip them. (Make sure they sear well, or they’ll fall apart when you try to flip them.) Place the pan in the oven to finish cooking. It’s chicken…so you don’t want to undercook your burgers!

When they’re ready to serve, place the patties on a bun and with a slice of or 2 of bacon and slather with this burger sauce…

1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon ketchup
1 tablespoon yellow mustard
1 tablespoon dill pickle relish
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Mix well. Refrigerate covered for a few hours to blend the flavors.

A look back at my 1000+ mile trip through Portugal continues…

The southernmost region of Portugal is called Algarve, and that was my ultimate destination after leaving the seaside village of Nazaré, driving through Albcobaça and Évora. It was about a 4-hour drive, not including stops (and missing exits!) I drove through miles and mile–wait, I was in Europe–kilometers and kilometers–with hectares and hectares–of vineyards and olive trees.

My 2-night stop was at the Westin Algarve Salgados Beach Resort, a beautiful property on the Mediterranean. And although my room was fantastic and the grounds were impeccable, there were a few maintenance issues with my room. And for food, only the lobby bar area was open my first night. Sadly, although we were far from the busy season, it was clear the staff was completely unprepared, perhaps even untrained.

Albufeira

The old town of Albufeira was a quick Uber ride away, and I spent an afternoon walking up and down the narrow streets that were packed with souvenir shops, bars and restaurants. It reminded me of Bourbon Street in New Orleans, just a tourist trap, but with a lot less charm and no good music (except for one local street performer.)

I almost booked a hotel in Albufeira, and I’m so glad I didn’t. If it was this noisy in the off-season, I can’t even imagine what the busy season would be like, especially in the evening when the real loud partying begins.

A view of the Mediterranean

I was glad to say I visited, but I was also glad to leave. Perhaps the least attractive and least inviting part of my entire trip.

The somewhat famous Albufeira “tunel,” built in the 1930’s to give people access to the beach.
The only food I had in Albufeira was this iced cappuccino. And it was the best coffee I had on the entire trip!
The young ladies working the coffee shop were jammin’ all day, so I made sure to treat them well.
Wanna paint a target on your back? Take the “tourist train!”