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As recently as a couple of years ago, I had never heard of beef flap. But I purchased one from Slanker’s, a distributor of grass-fed beef out in Texas, and it’s become one of my favorite cuts of beef.

You won’t find beef flap in most supermarkets…at least I haven’t been able to find it…so online ordering may be one of the only ways to give it a try.

And yes, I grill outside even in cold weather!

Beef flap is also known as bottom sirloin butt, and it comes from a part of the cow where flank steak comes from, only farther back. So it has its similarities to flank.

Beef flap is wonderfully marbled and is fantastic for a variety of dishes, including fajitas, stirfrying, or just enjoying it grilled.

I’ve marinated beef flap in many different ways, with Asian flavors and classic American BBQ spices, but one of my favorite ways is to give it a marinade that is similar to Italian dressing.

Some folks actually use bottled Italian dressing to marinate meat, but I prefer to make my own.

Olive oil
White wine vinegar
Salt
Pepper
Granulated garlic
Granulated onion
Dried oregano

Combine these ingredients in the proportions that you like in a bowl, mixing thoroughly.

I like to trim the beef flap, removing any silver skin that might be on it, and cutting it into pieces that are about 4” square and 1/4” thick. If the meat is too thick, I slice it lengthwise in half, to make a thinner cut. I place all the beef in a Ziploc bag, pour the marinade in, squeeze the air out of the bag and then seal it tightly.

I squish the bag all around to make sure that the marinade makes contact with all the meat, and I place the bag in the fridge overnight. (I usually put it in a bowl or tray, just to avoid any accidental spillage.)

The next day, I remove the meat from the fridge and let it come to room temperature before I cook it on a hot hardwood charcoal grill.

Beef flap cooks quickly on the grill, especially if you like it medium-rare, but because it has that fat marbling, it still stays juicy even if you like it well done.

And if you can’t get outside, a hot cast iron grill on the kitchen stove works just as well!

We’re waiting on the big snowstorm here in New England. If I didn’t have to go to work today, and spend the night at the radio station to be there for my show tomorrow morning, I’d probably be cooking something like this!

I based this recipe on one found online that didn’t have any specific measurements. So I played it by ear and came up with what I thought was a pretty darn good version of it.

It’s simply layers of sliced vegetables and a mix of cheeses that bakes in the oven. It’s an easy to prepare dish that can be made the day before and then kept in the fridge overnight until you’re ready to bake.

The veggie layers…

Sweet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 medium butternut squash, peeled and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
salt and pepper

The amount of sweet potato versus butternut squash is up to you. But you need a total of about 3 pounds of sliced and peeled veggies. If you have a mandolin for slicing, use it. But I went with a sharp knife and got some pretty thin slices that way.

Once you’ve sliced the veggies, place them in the pan you’ll be baking with. Add the olive oil, thyme, rosemary, and salt and pepper, and toss everything to mix really well. Set it aside.

The cheese…

12 oz. ricotta cheese
8 oz. shredded mozzarella
4 oz. grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1 egg
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage (or 1 teaspoon dried)
salt and pepper

In a bowl, mix all the ingredients well, until it’s soft and creamy. Set it aside.

Walnuts…

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped and toasted

This is optional. It will be sprinkled on the lasagna at the end of cooking.

Cranberry glaze…

1/2 cup cranberry sauce
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

This glaze is a bit tart, and is just what you need with the richness of all that cheese. Whisk these ingredients in a bowl until they’re smooth and set it aside.

Preheat the oven to 375°.

Remove the veggies from the baking pan, setting them aside in a bowl, so you can start the layering process back in the pan. Line the bottom with a layer of veggies, followed by a thin layer of the cheese. Then it’s another layer of veggies, and another of cheese, etc.

Depending on how thick your slices are, and how heavy your veggie layers are, you’ll get 3 or 4 layers of veggies, with cheese in between. You want the veggies to be on the top layer, no matter how many layers you go, so keep that in mind.

Wrap foil over the baking pan and bake for 45 minutes.

Foil removed and going back into the oven. (As you can see, this time I ran out of veggies for the top layer! All good!)

After 45 minutes, remove the baking pan from the oven, and remove the foil. Sprinkle the optional walnuts on at this point, and return the pan (without the foil) back to the oven for another 15 minutes.

Once the cooking is done, allow the baking pan to rest for about 10 minutes before slicing. Pour some of the cranberry glaze on top when serving.

Part of our Christmas dinner, along with beef stroganoff, broccoli and egg noodles.

National Pizza Week ended yesterday, but who needs a special week to eat pizza? Any day is a great day for pizza.
Despite the large Italian community we have here in southern New England, there’s no exceptional pizza to speak of. I suppose you could say “them’s fightin’ words!” but if it’s here, I haven’t found it yet. (Fellini Pizza is about the best in Providence.)

So where is the excellent pizza? New York City, of course. OK…maybe I’m prejudiced because I’m a Brooklyn boy, and worked in a variety of pizzerias in my younger days, but there’s no doubt in my mind that if you want the best pizza–or bagel, for that matter–you’ve got to go to the Big Apple. (Even “Frank Pepe’s” in New Haven, CT is a mere stop on the way to the real deal.)

Pizza in the Big Apple can be confusing, as there are many different varieties to choose from. Brick oven pizzas abound, but there are pizza lovers who won’t settle for anything less than an old-fashioned pizza baked in a coal-fired oven. The extremely high heat of a coal-fired oven cooks the pizza in just a minute, and imparts a crusty, charred flavor you can’t get any other way. There are only about a dozen coal-fired pizzerias left in New York City, and many of them have been around for a hundred years or more, so it’s definitely a matter of making a special trip to enjoy this style of pizza. (Providence now has its own coal-fired pizza, butp it just can’t compare.)

There’s plenty of good, basic pizza in New York City, too: the traditional thin, round Neopolitan pie, and the thicker, square Sicilian pie, baked in that Blodgett pizza oven we all knew in our early pizza-making days.

Many years ago, when I heard through the pizza lovers’ grapevine that a “new” pizza was out there, one that was gaining a cult following, I needed to know about it. And more importantly, I needed to taste it!

It’s called Pizza Montanara, and there’s still only a few pizzerias in New York City that serve it. The one I go to without fail is PizzArte, on West 55th, and I have to say it’s the ultimate pizza.

Pizza Montanara, sitting next to me in the car, just waiting to be devoured.

What makes Pizza Montanara so spectacular, quite simply, is that the dough is fried in oil for 30 seconds, flipped and fried another 30 seconds, before they put the sauce and cheese on it, and then they cook it in a wood burning oven. It is not greasy. The frying process puffs the dough up and creates a beautiful pillow-like softness that I’ve never experienced in a pizza before. Imagine a pizza cloud and you’ve got Pizza Montanara.

Where to get Pizza Montanara.

I’ve made Pizza Montanara at home, with limited success. I poured a few inches of olive oil in a large cast iron skillet, stretched my dough into a small pie, and gently floated it into the pan. Using a spatula and tongs, I was able to flip the fried dough over after about 30 seconds, then removed it from the pan after another 30 seconds. It was golden and puffy. I quickly sauced and cheesed it and in the oven it went. But it’s a messy process that doesn’t always come out just right. I need more practice!

Frying the pizza dough. I use olive oil for better flavor, but I have to watch the temperature, because the smoking point is low (about 375 for extra virgin olive oil) and burnt oil is not what anybody wants!

A homemade Pizza Montanara, with buffalo mozzarella and pepperoni.

A four-cheese Montanara, with mozzarella, sharp Provolone, Parmiggiano Reggiano, and ricotta…and lots of garlic!

Every time I post a photo of Pizza Montanara on Facebook or Instagram, my friends don’t believe that this could possibly be a life-changing pizza experience. It is. After a trip to Manhattan, we’ll devour 3 pizzas on the ride home. Nothing makes New York traffic easier to bear than a Pizza Montanara in the seat next to you!

Pizza Arte also makes one helluva gluten-free pizza.

Back in September, when my daughter started her freshman year at Northwestern University in Chicago, she and her mother flew out there, and I decided to take a road trip, putting the bigger, bulkier things in my car.

I stopped in Cleveland along the way, and had some fun food adventures.
Funny thing is, I loaded the photos into this blog’s library, but I never made a post out of it.
Better late than never!

It starts with the Marble Room, an incredible steak restaurant in the heart of Cleveland. Once the home to the National City Bank, this beautiful old bank lobby has been converted into a breathtaking restaurant. Clearly, the classiest joint in this city! And the food and service was fantastic.

My next day’s dining experience was not a letdown, despite the fact that I targeted a restaurant that was featured on Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives.” Fat Cats is a neighborhood restaurant that puts out some very creative and delicious dishes, and on my visit, the place was packed.

Goma was my stop for sushi, just steps from my hotel and the Rocket Arena.

Once in Chicago, we had an incredible meal at the Russian Tea Time Restaurant. It always starts with a vodka martini…

Blinis and caviar.
Chicken Kiev
Herring and potatoes
Napoleon for dessert.

Of course, there were other meals in local spots.

My return trip took me through Columbus, Ohio and Wilmington, Delaware.

My Columbus stop was quick, but I had a great Italian dinner at Martini Modern Italian. I think I was so tired and hungry, the only shot I got was of my Negroni!

Banks Seafood Kitchen and Raw Bar on the river in Wilmington, Delaware, looks and acts like a chain restaurant, but they made great cocktails and served up some very fresh seafood. No complaints!

Always fun to take a drive and see what kind of food adventures I can find!

MY BEEF STROGANOFF

Posted: January 14, 2026 in Uncategorized
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Beef Stroganoff is a classic dish that I remember from my childhood. It’s easy to make and really satisfying, and you can add or remove ingredients as you wish to make it your own.


This is a recipe that is easily changed to accommodate your personal tastes, so feel free to do so. For example, the classic recipe uses sliced white mushrooms. I had some dried porcini in my stash–much more intense in favor–but I like that, so I used them. Classic stroganoff uses egg noodles. I went with bucatini pasta. And the beef is usually a cut like flank steak, but I like using beef flap. Just be sure to slice the meat thinly and against the grain to keep it really tender.

This recipe makes a lot, so feel free to cut the ingredients in half for a smaller batch.

And if your family doesn’t like mushrooms, substitute some good beef broth to get extra flavor.

 

2 lbs. beef flap, trimmed and cut into thin strips
1 stick (4 oz.) unsalted butter
1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon
2 cups sour cream, at room temperature
salt and pepper

 

Place the dried porcini in a sauce pan with about 1 1/2 cups of water. Set it on high heat and let it boil until the liquid has reduced to about 1/2 a cup. Set it aside. When it has cooled a bit, strain off the liquid into a glass and chop up the mushrooms on a cutting board.


 

Melt a couple of tablespoons of the butter in a large pan, and start browning the beef in small batches, placing the cooked beef in a bowl on the side while you add more beef to the pan. Don’t overcrowd the pan or the beef will steam and not brown. It may take a few batches to get all the beef cooked.



 

Once the beef is done, in the same pan, toss in the chopped onions with a little more of the butter and sauté until they’re translucent. You can add some of the mushroom liquid to the pan now, to deglaze it and remove some of the yummy bits stuck to the bottom.




Add what’s left of the butter to the pan, then add the mushrooms and the tarragon. Season well with salt and pepper and add the rest of the mushroom liquid, being careful not to pour out any grit that may have settled to the bottom of the glass. Cook until it has thickened a bit.


 


 

You can stop preparations at this point until you’re ready to serve your guests.

Place the pasta in a pot of salted boiling water and cook until al dente.

When the pasta is almost done, return the pan with the mushroom mixture to medium heat, and add the sour cream to it, mixing well. Add the beef and any juices that are in the bowl with it, mixing well.




  

Drain the pasta and serve the beef stroganoff immediately, seasoning with a finishing salt, like Maldon.


 

 

A LITTLE SPICE IS NICE CHICKEN

Posted: January 11, 2026 in Uncategorized

I’m always goofing around with different spice blends, especially with chicken, because I probably cook it more than any other meat. Very often, I’ll just change up the blend depending on my mood, or what I first see when I open up the spice cabinet.

This was one of those days. But it came out great!

This time, I used a whole bird, and I spatchcocked it before seasoning and cooking. Spatchcocking is the process of cutting down both sides of the backbone of the chicken, so you can lay it flat in the pan. This way, the bird cooks more evenly. (Always save the backbone for future chicken stock.)

In many cases, before I season a piece of meat, I rub it with oil to help the seasonings stick. This time, I tried something a little unusual: I rubbed it all over with maple syrup! Then I seasoned both sides of the bird well.

Season both sides of the bird, after rubbing it with maple syrup.

1/4 cup brown sugar.
1/4 cup sweet paprika
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
1 tablespoon granulated onion
1 tablespoon granulated garlic
2 teaspoons black pepper
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon mustard powder
Maple syrup

Combine all the ingredients, except the maple syrup, in a bowl.

Spatchcock the chicken. Spread it out flat in a pan.

Rub the chicken all over with the maple syrup.

Rub all sides of the chicken with the spices and put it back in the fridge until one hour before cooking.

One hour before cooking, remove the chicken from the fridge and season again, if you think it needs it. Preheat the oven to 325° and bake until it reaches an internal temperature of 165°.

A little char is good! Cooking at a higher temperature may cause the sugars to burn.

PASTA WITH FIVE CHEESES

Posted: January 4, 2026 in Uncategorized
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Al Forno in Providence, RI, is a legendary Italian restaurant that was established in 1980 and has graced the pages of many a food magazine ever since. Chefs Johanne Killeen and George Germon made it a culinary destination, creating dishes that many have copied, but never equaled. 

One of those creations was the grilled pizza. These days, you can find grilled pizzas just about anywhere in the country, but it was Al Forno that started it all.

Sadly, George Germon passed away in 2015, but the restaurant continues. And although the menu offers a wide variety of dishes, the one my daughter and I crave–that isn’t on the menu–is their 5-cheese pasta dish. It’s not baked ziti. It’s not lasagna. It’s something way beyond.

 

Taking the recipe from one of Johanne and George’s cookbooks, my daughter and I decided that we would re-create this magical dish at home as best we could.

One element obviously missing in our home is a wood-fired oven, something Al Forno uses.

And looking at their list of 5 cheeses (mozzarella, Pecorino Romano, fontina, ricotta and gorgonzola), I found that gorgonzola was a bit of a surprise. Having had the 5-cheese pasta dish at least 4 times at Al Forno, I never detected even a hint of blue cheese. In fact, if I would have, I don’t think I would’ve ordered it again. So we chose to remove the gorgonzola and add another favorite, sharp provolone, instead. It turned out to be an excellent choice.

 

Other than that, we stayed true to the recipe, using shell pasta because that’s what we always got at the restaurant.

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes in heavy puree (San Marzano’s, if you can get ’em)
4 oz. thinly sliced mozzarella cheese
1.5 oz. grated Pecorino Romano cheese
1.5 oz. coarsely shredded Fontina cheese
1.5 oz. grated Provolone cheese
2 tablespoons ricotta cheese
3/4 teaspoon Kosher salt, plus more for the pasta water
6 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped
1 lb. conchiglie (medium shell) pasta
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, sliced thinly
Shavings of raw scallion for garnish (optional)

Preheat the oven to 500°, or as close to it as your oven will get.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In a mixing bowl, combine all the ingredients except the pasta and the butter. Stir well to combine.

Drop the pasta in the boiling water and parboil it for about 4 minutes. Drain it in a colander and add it to the ingredients in the mixing bowl. Combine it well.

Divide the pasta mixture into small ceramic dishes, or just use one large baking dish. You want it to sit in a relatively shallow 1-inch layer.

 

Dot the top of the dish with the butter, and bake it until it’s bubbly and brown, about 7 to 10 minutes at 500…a little longer at lower temperatures.

Funny how help arrives when it’s all about pasta and cheese!

It’s the creamiest, cheesiest pasta dish you’ll ever have…and everyone will fight over those little charred pasta shells!

Optional: When I ordered this dish at Al Forno, they would top it with thin shavings of raw scallion on top. I loved that touch and do that at home as well.

 

JUSTANOTHERRIB RECIPE

Posted: January 2, 2026 in Uncategorized
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Yeah, it’s cold outside. But sometimes, only ribs will do.

The classic “Adams Ribs” episode of M*A*S*H is one of my favorites. Hawkeye’s speech about the city of Chicago said it all: “Chicago. Hog butcher for the world. Toolmaker. Stacker of wheat. Player with railroads and the nation’s freight handler. Stormy, husky, brawling, City of the Big Shoulders. Sandberg knew, Radar. Spareribber for the universe! Maker of meat on a bone! The home of the pigsicle! Give me your tired, your poor… your cole slaw.”

There’s a million ways to make great pork ribs….and only a few ways to really ruin them. So, yeah, here’s another rib recipe. But it’s good.

I like using Berkshire pork St. Louis style ribs. They’re fattier than beef ribs, so I don’t have to worry as much about them drying out. I always remove the skin on the back of the ribs before rubbing them down with my spice rub.

 

Rubbed-down ribs. I let them sit for an hour at room temp before smoking.

8 to 10 lbs. pork ribs
spice rub (see below)
barbecue sauce (see below)

 

Spice rub

2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon granulated garlic
1 tablespoon salt (I like using fine sea salt)
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon celery seed (not celery salt)
1 tablespoon granulated onion

 

Combine all the spice rub ingredients. I like to grind the celery seed in a spice grinder before mixing with the others, so that I don’t get crunchy bits.

If the pork rib slabs are long, cut them in half so they’re easier to work with (and so they fit in the smoker!)

Rub the ribs with the spice rub, and place them in a 250° oven or smoker. Place a pan of water underneath to keep them moist and to catch any grease that drips down. I use an electric smoker, so during those 3 hours of cooking, I add hickory chips once an hour.

 

After 3 hours of smoking with hickory chips. I place one rack on top of another, brushing them with sauce, then wrapping them in foil.

 

While the ribs are cooking, it’s time to make the barbecue sauce. I like a citrus-based, sweeter sauce, and this time, I had some mandarin oranges in the kitchen. But you can easily substitute regular oranges, lemons, limes or even grapefruit for this recipe.

1 cup ketchup
1/2 cup mandarin orange juice (or other citrus juice)
zest of 2 mandarin oranges (or other citrus)
1/4 cup brown sugar
3 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon hot sauce (I like Frank’s Red Hot)
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

 

Brushed with sauce before wrapping in foil for the last 2 hours of cooking.

 

Remove the ribs from the smoker, place them individually on a piece of aluminum foil, and brush them with the barbecue sauce on all sides. Wrap them completely with the foil and place them on a baking sheet in a pre-heated 250° oven. Cook for 2 hours more.

Why cut them into individual ribs when you know you’re going to eat the rack anyway?

 

 

 

 

 

Happy new year! If you’re not dieting, this is a great way to start the new year! 😆

This recipe is not only delicious, but it results in a perfectly cooked cheesecake with no cracking.

One of the keys to a great cheesecake right is placing it in a water bath while baking. But if the springform pan allows water in (and they all do), it creates problems. The solution is to foil-wrap the springform pan really well.

But first, the crust…

1-1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs, from 12 whole crackers
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 375° and set an oven rack in the lower middle position.

Here’s the crucial part: Wrap a 9- or 10-inch springform pan with one large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, covering the underside and extending all the way to the top so there are no seams on the bottom or sides of the pan. Just to make sure, repeat this process with another sheet of foil for insurance. This keeps the water bath out of your cheesecake, so do a thorough job of it!

Then spray the inside of the pan with nonstick cooking spray.

In a medium bowl, combine the graham cracker crumbs, melted butter, sugar, and salt. Stir until it’s well combined. Press the crumbs into an even layer on the the bottom of the prepared pan. Bake the crust for 10 minutes, until set. Remove the pan from the oven and set it aside.


 

32 oz. (four 8-oz. blocks) cream cheese, at room temperature
2 cups sugar 
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon packed lemon zest, from 1 lemon
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, from 1 lemon 
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 large eggs 
1/2 cup sour cream

 

Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. Boil some water.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, sugar, and flour together on medium speed until just smooth, about 1 minute. Scrape the bottom and sides of the bowl to be sure the mixture is evenly combined.

Add the vanilla, lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt. Beat on low speed until it’s all just combined. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed until incorporated, scraping the bowl as necessary. Mix in the sour cream. Make sure the batter is uniform but don’t over-mix it.

By now, the oven should be cooled to 325°.

Set the cheesecake pan in a large roasting pan. Pour the batter on top of the crust. Pour the boiling water into the large roasting pan to come about 1 inch up the side of the cake pan.

Bake until the cake is just set, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 1 hour and 45 minutes (the cake should wobble just a bit when the pan is nudged). Remember: the cake will continue to cook outside of the oven before it cools!

Carefully remove the roasting pan from the oven and set it on a wire rack. Cool the cheesecake in the water bath until the water is just warm, about 45 minutes.

Remove the springform pan from the water bath and discard the foil. If necessary, run a thin-bladed knife around the edge of the cake to make sure it’s not sticking to the sides (which can cause cracks as it cools), then cover it with plastic wrap and put it in the fridge to cool for at least 8 hours or overnight.

After 8 hours, remove the sides of the springform pan. I like to serve the cheesecake right from the base of the pan. I’ve found that trying to remove the pan base only messes up the crust.

The secret to slicing beautiful pieces of cheesecake is to slice with a sharp knife, rinsing it in warm water and wiping it dry between every slice. 

AN UPDATE: I recently tried this recipe again, only to realize at the last minute that I lost my springform pan when I moved a year ago! All I had was a (relatively new, non-stick) baking pan, so I figured I’d give it a try. I knew my ingredients would taste good. I just didn’t know if I’d be able to get the cheesecake out of the pan!

The good news is: it cooked properly and tasted great!

The bad news is: it was a bit messy slicing it and removing it cleanly from the baking pan.

But baking a cheesecake without a springform pan can be done!

This is my version of a holiday drink I was introduced to me by my mother-in-law from the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

This classic is loaded with sugar. But then…so is everything else around the holidays!

Whiskey slush

9 cups water
2 cups sugar
4 “Constant Comment” tea bags
12 oz. frozen OJ concentrate
12 oz. frozen lemonade concentrate
2 cups whiskey (I use Crown Royal)
7-Up or Sprite

Boil the water and sugar, making sure the sugar dissolves. Turn off the heat and steep the tea bags in the liquid for 10 minutes. Discard the tea bags.

Add the OJ, lemonade and whiskey. Mix well, then pour it all into a freezable container with a lid. Freeze.

To serve: Scoop the slush out of the container (it doesn’t freeze solid) and mix it in a tall glass with 7-Up.

If you’re concerned about all that sugar, you can use a sugar substitute in the mix, and diet soda at the end. Some stores also carry low-sugar juice concentrates.